I mentioned Terry Wong aka The Food Canon in an earlier post on Yong Tau Fu. I met Terry in the recent launch of his cookbook “Mum’s Classics Revived.” The book is a compilation of his mother’s recipes, as artfully described on his website.
“Any Hakka recipes?” I asked.
“Not so many,” Terry said. “but I have the famous zhar yoke.”
My blank expression must have shown a lack of recognition.
“Zhar yoke,” he said. “Hakka fried pork. It’s very popular in Malaysia.”
I purchased the book and eagerly flipped to the Zhar Yoke page. It described a recipe for pork belly marinated in nam yee and five spice powder, then deep fat fried and served dry.
It didn’t look like something I’d eaten before. Except one of the ingredients – an egg in the marinade – tweaked a memory of something my grandmother used to make. I decided to try out the recipe. I’m glad I did.
The pork was tasty but more importantly, I recognized the flavor of my grandmother’s fried chicken.
When I was little, my granny used to prepare cooked lunches and send them home in stacked tiffin pans. My favorite lunch was fried chicken but unlike KFC or Popeye’s crispy fried chicken, her’s was always tender, full of unique flavor, with an unusual moist coating.
I now realised that the mystery flavor was nam yee and the not-crispy coating was the light breading made from flour and egg. As Terry says in his book, “the purpose of flour is to create a thin layer of batter to hold the seasoning” in the meat. “The result after deep frying should not be a layer of crispy batter.”
Terry’s recipe recalled a taste from my childhood that I’ve long forgotten. If you’d like a taste (with far better pictures than mine) here’s his online recipe for The Food Canon’s Hakka Zhar Yoke
Singapore. March 2017